La Cave de Belleville
Right-bank purists, 19eme loyalists and vino-lovers du jour, listen up — because this winebar is one local gem, smack-bang in the heart of Belleville, that you’re going to want to check out — if you haven’t already.
About a quarter of the way up the long Rue de Belleville lies this airy, well-lit wine shop, épicerie and casual wine bar — all rolled into one.
Open every day of the week, this nook (housed in what used to be a former leather wholesaler) is the brainchild of three unlikely fellows — a pharmacist, a sound engineer, and a gallerist — by the names of François Braouezec, Aline Geller*, and Thomas Perlmutter, who had little-to-no experience in the vino biz, but had a dream to open a quality cave-à-manger… and nailed it.
A hit with residents of the 19eme and beyond, this place isn’t about any airs and graces; but it IS all about good wine, cheese, inexpensive plates of charcuterie, top tapas, and a delicious cavern of canned & carnivorous delicacies too numerous to count — and you’ll find all of those things in one perfect little package here — with friendly & knowledgeable staff around to welcome you for your apéro on arrival, en plus.
If you’ve ever been to le quartier de Belleville (**“The Little Sparrow’s” original birthplace), then you know that it ain’t St Germain or the Marais — and it doesn’t pretend to be. That’s the beauty of this rough-around-the-edges neighbourhood in the heart of Paris’ East (Right Bank) — and here, in the midst of kebab shops, dingy (but fabulous!) dumpling bars, Chinese restaurants, op shops and bustling Frencher-than-french bistros, you’ll find this diamond of a drinking den.
It’s cosy, it’s cool – it’s as local as it gets. What it isn’t, is fancy – or full of itself. But who needs that anyway? Have a drink, relax, unwind. It’s Friday — bottoms up, et santé! ;)
**As the legend goes, Édith Piaf — also known as “The Little Sparrow” — was born in a doorway at 72 rue de Belleville in the 19th arrondissement on 19 December 1915; just a stone’s throw away from where La Cave de Belleville is.
If you don’t know her — she is known as one of the most iconic French artists of all time and, from very humble beginnings, rose to international stardom in the late 1930s as a symbol of French passion and tenacity. Of Piaf’s many ballads, “La Vie en Rose,” which she wrote, is remembered as her signature song. Look her up, or — if you’re in Paris — you can also visit her home + the museum dedicated to her; and find out more about her here: parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71402/Musee-Edith-Piaf.
Perfect for: A good glass (4.50-6€) — or bottle — of wine with friends in cosy, not-too-trendy (but somehow still hipster) surroundings. Laid-back & cool. Local-approved. Full of Frenchies. :)
What to order: Vin! Et une bonne planche de fromages et de charcuteries! (19 €) :b
Address: 51 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris (Google Maps).
Trading hours: Monday-Saturday: 10AM-12AM // Sunday: 11:30AM-7:30PM.
Insta: @lacavedebelleville
Facebook: /lacavedebelleville
Website: lacavedebelleville.wordpress.com
* At the time of writing our sources tell us that Aline Geller is no longer with the business.